Feb. 16, 2018:
As dawn broke over the Great Barrier Reef, we were awaked by the crew for breakfast, and then another exciting day of diving. As we finished up “Brekkie No. 1” (first breakfast), we got our dive briefing for our first dive of the day at the aptly named Around the Bend dive spot.
As a general note, we found the captain and crew to be incredibly knowledgeable about each of the areas we visited, and happy to share that knowledge. In fact, I’m going to use their charts from the dive briefings to show what we did for each dive, and that is at least going to be the starting place for these blogs. The dive briefings were very detailed, and the crew was hyper-aware of the potential for changing conditions.
In this case, the dive is essentially a drift dive along the outer reef face or a sea mount, with a stop mid-dive to watch out for sharks and other large predator fish that gather at a break in the reef wall to hunt. Then a swim across the opening, gradually ascending to a shallow area called the Grotto where you can do your safety stop and gaze at a coral reef while you do it. At least, that was the plan …
There are some big challenges about this dive spot. First and foremost is the current, which is very strong. Also, because the current is so strong, you must descend very quickly in order not to miss the place you hang out and watch for the big fish. Next, also because of the current, it was really tricky to latch onto the opening in the reef where prior dive companies have erected a rope into the reef face for you to latch onto. Finally, making the ascent across the reef opening with its increased current made for a tiring end to the dive. In short, this turned out to be the most challenging dive of the whole trip! Jim and I didn’t have any trouble making the descent and doing the drift dive, but that whole latching-on-to-rope-thing was fraught with peril. Jim and I got separated by the current. By the time I had made it back to the reef wall and latched on to (literally) one of the dive masters, I had pretty much missed the opportunity to see any of the hunters in action. Then came the hard swim to our ascent location. What can I say?! Another eff’g opportunity to learn! Our takeaway: if the dive plan goes to shit, you can always latch onto something long enough to make your safety stop and then ascend. If you’re too far away from the boat, that’s what those inflatable safety sausages are for!
After a really hearty “second brekkie” while the captain moved the boat (and we recovered from our harrowing first dive), Jim and I were ready for the main event of the day; a shark feeding at North Horn. This is a totally cool area which features a natural amphitheater at about 40 feet which looks down at the top of a seamount about 15 feet below it. The crew has filled a metal cage with pieces of frozen tuna heads threaded through a metal cable and attached to some buoys. as we took our places on the ledge of the amphitheater, the cage is slowly lowered onto the top of the seamount and tied off. Then the sharks and other predators began to gather. When we had amassed a sizable crowd of sharks, the crew member with the short straw had to latch the metal cage and then a food fight broke out. The best pictures from this came from our onboard photographer, Vili, who took up a position right on the edge of the seamount about three feet from the cage. My photos are the definitely less interesting (but safer) ones looking down on the scene.
We stayed in place for our third dive of the day, which gave us an opportunity to do more diving along the reef wall of North Horn. This was a very cool experience, because there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to look for fish, and we saw types of fish I have never seen before. Now the challenge is to try to identify them from the pictures I took! Tomorrow, we’ll be diving further south off Bouganville Reef.