Category Archives: Local Customs

Another Day Among the Anangu

Feb. 14, 2018:

 

Happy Valentine’s Day, dear Readers! This morning we were scheduled to go do a hike at Kata Tjuta (about a 45 minute drive away from Uluru) followed by a visit to the Anangu Cultural Center at Uluru. However, we didn’t feel like doing another dawn wake up (and it was still pouring down rain at dawn), so we opted just to visit the Cultural Center later in the morning. Besides, if possible, the Kata Tjuta stone formations are more sacred than Uluru. So sacred, in fact, that non-Anangu peoples are forbidden to even learn about the sacred stories and traditions surrounding that rock formation. Fortunately, the sun (and heat) came back before we left for our visit, so we were able to place our sopping wet shoes out to dry.

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Dawn views of the rain still pounding Uluru
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and also on Kata Tjuta

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The Cultural Center was really fascinating, and also featured some workshops by some of the local artists. There were some videos made by some of the community elders about the time the government decided to turn Uluru back to the local Anangu tribe, which was only about 30 years ago. Most interesting to me was learning that, in addition to being one of the oldest land masses on the planet, this area of Australia can trace its human habitation by these tribes back more than 58,000 years. When you see the facial structure of the Anangu today, it is easy to see how human evolution worked because their features are so ancient.  Sadly, the Cultural Center is also considered sacred so no photos were allowed. However, it was well worth the visit!

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Entry to the Uluru Park. Apparently, there are wild camels here, but we never saw them.
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Final views of Uluru with water still cascading down the sides

Then it was back to the resort and a final meal before catching the flight to Cairns, which will be our gateway to diving on the Great Barrier Reef. Jim and I can barely wait!!!!!!!!

Oohing and Aahhing at Uluru

Feb. 13, 2018:

Jim and I were up before the sun this morning to do a hike around the base of Uluru, and to learn more about the aboriginal culture of the local people who call themselves the Anangu. We got some killer shots of Uluru at sunrise, walked the Kuniya Walk (involving a sacred story about the snake goddess, Kuniya) and then were able to see some of the ponds that form at Uluru’s base called the Mutitjulu Waterhole. Learning our lesson from last night, we were all garbed up in our fly hoods because with the sun came the flies! I lasted about a third of the way around the base, and then gave up to the heat and flies. Jim, however, trooped the entire way around the base (a distance of about six miles).

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The stone formation said to represent the goddess Kuniya (as a snake curled on top of itself)
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Stone pictographs in the Learning Cave at the Kulp Mutitjulu Uluru-111

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Mutitjulu Waterhole

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Following that, we rested during the heat of the day, and then reassembled for another expedition of Uluru; this time to focus on the sacred areas of the Rock, and to learn more about the myths of those places. Rain has been threatening all afternoon (and in fact rained for a short time this afternoon while we were swimming), but it is so blasted hot, Jim and I left our raincoats behind, and just carried umbrellas. Once again, cocktails and canapés awaited us at the end of this excursion. However, about halfway through the trip, the heavens just opened up.

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Normally, you would think this was a bummer, but a fabulous thing happened. The top of Uluru is basically a giant flat rock with some pools in it. When it rains really hard, the pools fill up, and waterfalls start to cascade down the side of Uluru. Usually, this can take up to two hours, and may not even happen if the rain is not strong enough. However, in this case, the rain was so violent that we were able to see the beginning of the waterfalls within about 20 minutes. In fact, the rain was so hard that it looked like water was exploding from the top of Uluru.

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We finally left when it started thundering and lightning right overhead, and we had a very wet hike out of the park, but it was still a magical experience. Back at the resort, we enjoyed a spectacular lightning show while we ate dinner.

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Cape Brett and Bay of Islands

Feb. 5, 2018:

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We are finally in New Zealand! We sailed in this morning to the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, made famous by Captain James Cook. Sadly, I’m fighting a cold, so Jim went off without me for an early morning cruise among the islands. This area is absolutely gorgeous, and is somewhat reminiscent of the Puget Sound area. His cruise went around the Bay and sailed past many landmarks, including the Cape Brett Lighthouse, the Hole in the Rock, and historic Russell (the original capital of New Zealand).

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Hole in the Rock

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Cape Brett Lighthouse and caretaker’s Cottage
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Historic Russell-original capital of New Zealand

After Jim returned to the ship, we went ashore for a brief wander around the town of Paihia. Our ship’s tender docked at the Waitangi Pier, right next to the Waitangi Treaty House, where in 1840 New Zealand’s founding document between the British Crown and the Maori chieftains was signed. Coincidentally, tomorrow, Feb. 6th, is Treaty Day or New Zealand Day.

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Waitangi

 

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Treaty House and Treaty Grounds

The ship’s shuttle then took us a short distance into Paihia. Paihia is a cute resort town, but the major activities here are big game fishing and scuba diving in the Bay. Then we returned to the ship to prepare for our departure tomorrow in Auckland. Stay tuned for Part II of this adventure, as Jim and I try to explore as much of Australia as we can fit into the next two weeks!

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Paihia Pier

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Young Maori dance group practicing for Waitangi Treaty Day

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Poking Around Pago Pago

Jan. 29, 2018:

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After a couple more days at sea, we pulled in this morning to a hot a steamy day in Pago Pago (pronounced “Pango Pango”), American Samoa. It rains an incredible amount here, so everything is lush and green, but also amazingly humid! Given that it rained tons yesterday and is supposed to rain again later today, stepping outside our cabin is like stepping into a sauna.

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We don’t have a very arduous day today of excursions; just a bus trip up the coast a bit to visit some local viewpoints, a memorial to the victims of the 2009 tsunami, and a Samoan cultural show featuring a “kava” ceremony.

Notwithstanding the fact that Pago Pago is an American outpost, and fairly developed by the US military, things are decidedly laid back here. A prime example are the busses. Each “bus” is built on a car or truck chassis, and then an open-air wooden box with bench seats is built on top. Each bus is lovingly painted (and frequently named). In our honor, many of the busses have been decorated with fresh palm fronds and ginger blossoms.

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American Samoa features tall volcanic cliffs and valleys, which wind up almost immediately from the coastal area, and those hills are all heavily forested with tropical rain forest vegetation. The tree canopy is lovely, and there are some trees blooming in bright colors. Many Samoans make or supplement their living by farming in villages up in the hillside areas, and the ground looks so fertile, I imagine you have only to stick something in the ground to make it grow.

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Our entire group of busses set off up the coast for our first stop; a tiny islet lying just a few feet off the shore known as the “Flowerpot”. You have only to look at it to see why.

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The Flowerpot

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Further on, we stopped at a park for some awesome views of the coastline and the hills surrounding it. There is actually a US National Park located here (the 59th), and it takes up about half the island, and two outlying islands. It encompasses all sorts of terrain, including some awesome beaches and rainforest areas, but we couldn’t find anyone offering a guided tour (or a dive excursion, either).

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We made a brief stop at the one and only golf course on the island, and then continued on to the tsunami memorial.

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The Golf Course Clubhouse
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The golf course

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The Tsunami Memorial

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Shelly: Another one for you!

Finally, we went to the Samoan cultural show. Tribal life is still a very important and ever-present part of daily life here, and the local civil police authorities and courst system share jurisdiction with the tribal chiefs. The Kava ceremony we saw was a demonstration of an old custom where the special kava drink is prepared according to ritual and then shared with important guests. For those of us that didn’t want to sample the bitter brew, there were chilled coconuts to drink, followed by a dancing exhibition. Two of the more elderly men in the group were named honorary chiefs for the day, which required them to strip off their shirts and don the traditional tapa cloth skirts.

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The honorary “chiefs”

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Preparing the Kava

 

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Chief drinking kava

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Then it was time to go back to the ship. As Jim and I headed up to the top deck to enjoy sailing out of harbor, we all clustered at the rails to watch our poor seamen try to get our gangway unstuck so it could be brought aboard.  We all took turns coming up with expressions to match the looks on the captain’s face. Finally, disaster averted; we sailed out of port for New Zealand.

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The stuck gangway
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The Captain overseeing the “snafu”

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To The Tahitian Islands We Go

Jan. 22, 2018:

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After four days at sea, we arrived this morning to glorious sunshine in the tropics. We are docked in the harbor at Nuka Hiva, the largest and most-populated of the Marquesas Islands, which are part of French Polynesia. If you are noticing how behind I already am in posting about our visits, let me tell you that the first two days out of Maui, we saw incredibly turbulent seas and unremitting rain. Suffice it to say that the first kept me from blogging or editing photos, or doing much except creeping around the ship!

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Taiohae Bay

We are anchored in the Bay of Taiohae. The Marquesas Islands form one of the five administrative divisions  of French Polynesia. Probably the best known of those groups of islands is the Society Islands, where Tahiti and Bora Bora are located. Here, however, we are still very remote, and we are about 850 miles to the northwest of the next nearest Tahitian island. The capital of the Marquesas Islands administrative subdivision is the settlement of Taiohae on the island of Nuku Hiva. The population of the Marquesas Islands was 9,346 inhabitants at the August 2017 census, and the population of Nuka Hiva itself is about 4,000 people.

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Two of the more famous visitors to the island were Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson. Melville deserted his ship here in 1841, and was immediately captured by a tribe of natives in the Taipivai Valley (1 valley over from Taiohae). After three weeks of captivity, he escaped to Taiohae, and his experiences on the island served as his inspiration for his book, Typee. More recently, the island also came into the spotlight in 2001, when it served as the site for the reality TV show, Survivor Nuka Hiva.

Although we are in the tropics, the Marquesas are the most dry of the Tahitian islands, and the climate at vegetation at sea-level is pretty arid. However, in the interior of the island, large volcanic mountains rise up and are covered with lush rain forest-type vegetation. In fact, the islanders are experimenting with cattle- raising in these interior valleys.

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As you might imagine, for such a remote place and small population, there are limited excursion opportunities available. In fact, there is only one, consisting of a drive over the high plateau in the center of the island called To’ovi’I to get to Taipivai. The only transportation available to accomplish this task is the personal 4WD vehicles of the villagers. Only one small drawback … most of the villagers only speak French in addition to Tahitian. The work-around for this was that we made several stops where everyone got out and took pictures, and the village spokesman, who did speak good English explained what we were seeing and the local history and culture. Our excursion took us up from the harbor on the only road up and over the ridge to the harbor in Taipivai Valley.

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Our first stop was at the Hakapa look out, where we had some killer views of the harbor, and our ship, Navigator. The Survivor cast stayed up near here in 2001 while they were filming.

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Views from Hakapa lookout

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Our caravan of villagers

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Taipivai Harbor
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Banana Plantation

On the way back, we made a stop at the relatively new community center where we were served delicious fresh local fruits by some of the village ladies. As hot as it is, the highlight of the stop was the chilled, in-the-coconut juice.

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We finished driving  back over the pass and proceeded on to the main Catholic church, Notre Dame, which had some pretty interesting Biblical carvings rendered in Polynesian style. Our tour concluded back at the center of town near the tender pier. While we enjoyed our day, I would say that this is not our favorite Taitian island.

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Shellie: This one is for you!

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From Lichtenstein to Lucerne

Lucerne-90December 15-17, 2017:

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Dear Readers:

What a wonderful year it’s been!  I thank each and every one of you for your really positive comments and support!  We promise to keep your travel curiosity satisfied next year, but this is our last post for 2017 (as always, just a tad late!).

so it was with some sadness that we left our cozy mountain retreat in Zûrs on Friday, December 15th.  However, the open road beckoned, and we set off after an epic snowfall (with really nicely cleared roads) for Lucerne, Switzerland.  This whole detour through the Alps was necessitated by the fact that we are really cheap travelers (when it makes sense), and we had to wait until Monday to get a frequent flyer flight out of Frankfurt at the lowest points level.  Hence, our journey through the Alps (and the bonus of picking up another country on the way).

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Leaving Arlberg

What can I say … the drive through the Alps the day after yesterday’s snowstorm was just amazing!  We did stop in Lichtenstein for lunch, but it literally only took about 20m minutes to drive from Austria to Switzerland.

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Crazy Alpine tunnels

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Welcome to Lichtenstein!

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Then we had a magical drive to our destination tonight, Lucerne. Lucerne lies on one of the plentiful alpine lakes in Switzerland, and we arrived about 4:00 in the afternoon, just as darkness was beginning to fall.

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However, despite Jim’s best laid plans, our approach to the hotel did not go according to plan. He had first tried to map the entry route to our hotel, Les Balances, on Google Maps, but gave up when the app crashed with the ominous “spinning rainbow pizza of doom” (it’s an Apple thing).  Failing that, Jim called the hotel to ask directions. With those in hand, he plotted our approach on the GPS. Ruh roh!  It would have worked just fine except that there was a Christmas market right in the middle of the square we needed to drive through to get to our hotel!  Backing out of the old town, I jumped out to ask two traffic guys how to get there. One didn’t speak English (a pretty rare thing in Switzerland) and the other guy sent us back to the other side of the river to try a different approach. After ending up in another Christmas market, we skirted the edge and got bak over the bridge to the correct side of the river. The crazy thing was that we could see our hotel from the bridge. However, all roads led away from the hotel, and we flagged down a traffic cop to ask directions, She sent us into a pedestrian walkway makes very clearly as a no driving zone. We pulled to the side of the minuscule street and called the hotel. They told us that notwithstanding the signs, guests of the hotel were allowed to drive on the pedestrian cobble-stoned streets. The sight of a few delivery vans made us feel marginally better, but JIm needed a really large martini after we had finally arrived and handed the car over to a capable valet. Whew!

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The narrow little street we had to drive on to get access to our hotel is to the right of the green building!

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The front entrance to Hotel des Balances
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The Christmas market in the plaza blocking our access to the hotel.

 

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Our last Christmas market; I promise!

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Building decorated like an Advent calendar

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We awoke the next morning to rain (instead of the predicted snow) and set off to do a bit of sightseeing and to grab a latte.  For the most part, we walked along the edge of Lake Lucerne, and then turned inland to the old part of town.  There was a lovely and fragrant Christmas tree market right by the lake.

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Probably the most notable sight we saw was a memorial to the Swiss Guard soldiers lost in the French Revolution. As a protective force, they were pledged to guard the French King Louis XVII and Marie Antoinette. However, by the time they were called up, it was obvious that the French monarchy was going to fall, but the Swiss Guard members fulfilled their duty anyway. The memorial to their bravery is a resting lion carved into a stone wall in a lovely park.

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Jim drinking wine in the snow

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Finally after a day of trooping around Lucerne, Jim and I returned to the room just in time to see a really beautiful snowfall with fat, fluffy flakes falling right outside our balcony.  Out lovely stay in Lucerne was capped off by a fabulous meal in the old sector just across the river from our hotel called Stern.

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Tomorrow, we drive on the Autobahn up to Frankfurt, where we will overnight at the airport hotel. From there, we fly home to celebrate the holidays with our family.  Again, from the bottom of our hearts, thank you for your support and Happy New Year! Stay tuned for our next adventure, which is right around the corner, as we cruise down to New Zealand andAustralia from the port of Los Angeles.

 

From the Wachau Valley to Vienna

Dec. 8, 2017:

 

Good morning and happy Feast of the Immaculate Conception Day, which is what it is in Austria today. We are docked briefly in the port of Melk, Austria. This means no shops are open, and the only thing on the agenda is a visit to the Melk Abbey-constructed in the Baroque style dating to 17th Century. True confessions time … Jim and I have been on the run for the last two weeks and it is catching up to us. I’ve managed to catch Jim’s cold, so we both decided to play hooky in Melk. Once again, it’s about freezing degrees, and grey, so it was not a hard decision to make.

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We made an early departure so we would have a pretty sail through the Wachau Valley, which is a major wine growing region in Austria. Probably the most recognizable grape grown here is Grüner Veltliner, and also dry Riesling, but the area is also well-known for growing apricots, and using them to make candies, liqueurs, and schnapps.

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The sail through the valley is pretty, but Jim and I can only imagine what it would like in the summer with all the vines covered in leaves and fruit. Can you sense a theme here?! This may be the last time I convince Jim to travel somewhere cold and snow for sightseeing. Still. It’s fun to sail pass countless castles and churches obviously dating back a long time.

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Our tour directors make the best of the time by sharing a showcase of the regional products. I’ve decided that apricot schnapps is an excellent medicinal solution for a cold, particularly in a cup of homemade hot chocolate! Me; I’m just happy to sit in the observation lounge at the front of the ship and watch the scenery pass by as I edit my photos!

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We arrived in Vienna about 6 pm this evening. Although there is an excursion planned to see the lights at the Vienna City Hall Christmas market (Rathausplatz) market, which purportedly has the prettiest lighting in Vienna, it’s raining, (and Jim and I have an issue to deal with back home) so we prudently decided to pass on this opportunity. Besides, we will get a full tour of Vienna tomorrow and we have booked an extra days’ stay in Vienna, so I am sure this is not the last opportunity we will have to see these lights.