Jim and I awakened March 25th before sunrise to hot coffee and a croissant in our tent. We hurriedly got dressed, and took our gear to the waiting safari jeep. Madan and Vijay had arrived early because they had some secret intel that male and female tigers had been spotted in Zone 6 recently, and this was our assigned zone for the morning drive. Zones 6-10 are on the far side of town, and we drove through the streets of Sawai Madhopur, where the Ranthambhore Park is located. The Indian festival of Holi is today, but the streets were still pretty quiet (except for the cows) as we sped along. Once at the Park, we cooled our heels until the ranger opened the gates. Then Vijay replayed yesterday’s “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride” as we sped through the jungle to try to get a prime viewing location where the tigers had last been seen.
Their efforts paid off, as we were only the second jeep in the area, and had a prime viewing location. First we saw the male, and he was incredibly majestic. shortly thereafter, the female came into view, and we were treated to some tiger porn. The scene got increasingly chaotic and more and more vehicles arrived, but as you can see, we got the coveted views!
At one point, the male tried to have a second go at it, but apparently the female didn’t think much of his technique, because she hissed at him and took a swipe. But they settled down and made up, and we continued watching as they moved deeper into the jungle. Photographic mission accomplished, Jim and I both felt like we could relax and enjoy the rest of what the Park had to offer.
After finishing our morning drive, we drove back through the town of Sawai Madhopur, where Holi festivities were in full swing. Scooters full of color-dusted young men swirled around us, and children pelted each other with colored powders, while people shouted, “Happy Holi” to each other, including us.
We returned to our safari lodge, where our own Holi festivities awaited us. Jim and I changed into the white pants and shirts the resort had provided, and wandered down to the field where our Holi party was taking place.
Unlike a lot of the colored powders we have seen sold on the streets, the resort makes its own powders using natural ingredients from plants and flowers grown on the property, then dried and crushed. Everyone got into the spirit, including the staff, and we all wished each other Happy Holi, while dusting each other with powder. Unlike what I had believed, it’s not like a giant food fight where people pelt each other (at least among older Indians), but the colors are thoughtfully rubbed into your hair and clothes. The resort GM had hired a local band to play, and Negronis were being served (along with fruit juices. We played and enjoyed the music, and the snacks prepared for us before returning to our tents to wash the powders off. What a fabulous experience, and so joyful!
After lunch, Jim and I went for a brief swim. But all too soon, it was time to get ready to go out again for the afternoon’s game drive. This afternoon, we headed back to the zones closest to our resort. We had been assigned to Zone Five. Madan told us that according to his group of guides, a tigress with recent kill was spotted here yesterday. And off we went!
It turned out that we were not able to see any more tigers that day, but it turned out to be a great afternoon for bird spotting! Zone 5 has several waterholes, and there were some good viewings at a couple of them. We waited for about 45 minutes in the riverbed area where the tigress had been spotted, but no luck. The temperatures had soared that afternoon, and any animals with any sense were resting deep in the brush. We also saw some different species along the roads. All in all, we’re going to count this as a fabulous day!
Vaya con Gringos 
The pictures of the tigers are incredible! wow. Looks like a great day.
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Jimmy the over seer, nice outfit. Great tiger pics,!!!
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